Exploring the Oregon Museum of Mental Health

Kirkbride U, Oregon State Hospital

The one good thing to be said about the old Oregon State Hospital is that the dilapidated, decaying building was a real star maker. The movie shot there, One Flew Over the Cuckoo’s Nest, swept the 1976 Academy Awards winning in all the major categories including Best Picture, Best Actor (Jack Nicholson), Best Actress (Louise Fletcher), Best Adapted Screenplay, and Best Director (Milos Forman).  Thirty years later, a series of articles published in The Oregonian describing the facility’s deplorable conditions and mistreatment of patient cremains won the paper a Pulitzer Prize for Editorial Writing.

Hospital grounds

The hospital, originally called the Oregon State Insane Asylum, was built in 1883 on 130 acres in what was then rural Salem, but is now well within the city limits on busy Center St. The grand, Italianate, brick building was constructed in the style devised by Thomas Kirkbride, a leading advocate for the mentally ill. His plans included a central administration building connecting two separate wings for male and female patients.  Over the years, additional wings and buildings were added, and the hospital grew to a peak occupancy of 3475 patients in 1958.

As state funding for mental health declined, so did conditions at the facility until it reached a state described in The Oregonian with adjectives like “grim,” “decrepit,” and “dreary.”  Amid mounting concerns for patient safety in the event of an earthquake, a governor’s task force in 2004 concluded it was time to tear down the hospital and build a new one more in line with current practices in treating mental illness. A preservation group rallied to put the campus on the National Register of Historic Places, and the original administrative unit was saved from the wrecking ball and incorporated into the new design.

Today the restored Kirkbride building houses the Oregon Museum of Mental Health. While small in size, it’s chockfull of pictures, artifacts, documents and interactive materials offering visitors an unusual opportunity to explore the history of mental illness and its treatments over the years, as well as the specific story of the Oregon State Hospital.  The exhibit “Why Am I Here” highlights patients’ stories and offers startling statistics on the types of diagnosis from dementia, menopause, or alcoholism that might mean a lifelong commitment in the asylum.

Another exhibit features equipment used in treatment ranging from straightjackets, lobotomies, insulin and electric shocks to the more benign hydrotherapy and cosmotherapy, a treatment encouraging patients to look their best. A section of the 1948-1951 financial statement for the Cosmotherapy Department shows line items for 224 eyebrow archings at 75 cents each, and 3071 finger waves at 50 cents each, for example.

Other displays show daily life at the hospital for both patients and staff, and there is a small exhibit related to the filming of One Flew Over the Cuckoo’s Nest. Using the hospital and patients for the movie project was extremely controversial at the time, but the hospital’s director, Dr. Dean Brooks, fought for it claiming the filming would provide jobs for patients and make for an exciting adventure for everyone at the hospital.  It might be noted that Dr. Brooks plays himself in the movie in the role of Dr. Spivey.

After leaving the museum, visitors should turn left and walk a short distance downhill to the Cremains Memorial. For years, the cremains of unclaimed, deceased patients were placed in copper canisters and stored in the basement of one of the buildings. Over time, water seeped in, corroding the canisters and turning the copper into marbled shades of blue and green. The labels on the 3500 canisters were mostly gone, and it took hospital employees two years to research the identities. Today the canisters reside in a special building allowing visitors to honor the dead.

The museum experience is a reminder of how our understanding and treatment of mental health has evolved over the years, and how much further we need to travel. To learn more about visiting, see www.oshmuseum.org.

Heirloom Roses

It’s June. It’s Portland. And it’s all about roses. For years, the Rose City has celebrated its eponymous flower with a festival, parades, royal court, and the obligatory visit to its most famous showplace, the International Rose Test Garden in Washington Park. If you want to smell the roses without the crowds, head south about 25 miles to the Willamette Valley for a visit to Heirloom Roses.

Here, spread out over five acres of themed gardens, are thousands of roses in all colors, shapes, and sizes. Visitors are free to wander through the grounds admiring the Climbers, the Miniatures, the Hybrid Teas, or sit on a bench in the shade and enjoy the fragrance and hues.

In the Sales Cottage, a wide variety of plants are available along with rose-specific gardening tools, books, and supplies. The gardens are open year round with roses in bloom from May to October, but June is certainly the peak time.  Take a look!

 

 

 

 

 

Lasting Legacy of the CCC

 

At the Forest History Center on State Street in Salem there stands a life-size statue of a hunky, shirtless, young man leaning on a shovel. 

CCC Worker Statue

He is posed in front of a wooden, green building with a pair of gables and twin dormer windows. Their connection is a federal program initiated by Franklin D. Roosevelt shortly after his inauguration to provide jobs for the nation’s growing number of unemployed young men.

Known as the Civilian Conservation Corps, or CCC, it operated between 1933 and 1942, and was one of the most successful and popular New Deal programs.  Oregon was an active participant with over 60 camps scattered around the state. The men built roads, bridges, trails, campgrounds, fought forest fires, and planted trees. In exchange for their labor, they received education, job training, food and shelter (three hots and a cot) and the grand sum of $30 a month. They could keep $5 with the other $25 sent home to their families.  Even though eighty years have passed and many CCC efforts are long gone, about one-third of the permanent projects in Oregon remain and can still be enjoyed in forests and parks around the state.

Forest History Center, Salem

The Forest History Center is a good place to begin. The building was constructed by the CCC in 1936 to house their headquarters, and was moved to its present location from the east side of Mill Creek in 2001. Today, a section of the museum is dedicated to the CCC program and features camp photos, a wall map with site locations, and miscellaneous memorabilia donated by alumni. The CCC Worker Memorial Statue in front was dedicated in 2002.

Silver Falls Lodge

One of the program’s permanent projects is a short distance east of Salem at Silver Falls State Park. The CCC was responsible for constructing much of the infrastructure seen in the South Falls Day Use Area including rocks walls, bridges, stairs and the rustic South Falls Lodge. The lodge and surrounding ten acres are listed in the National Register of Historic Places. In addition, the CCC developed the park’s popular Trail of the Ten Falls.

West Shelter, Cape Perpetua

The Oregon Coast hosted several CCC camps, and remnants of Camp Cape Creek remain visible on the site of the Cape Perpetua Visitor Center, two miles south of Yachats.  Workers here built the campground and network of trails, but their most noted accomplishment was the West Shelter observation point at the top of the headland. Built of rocks, this sturdy structure has survived years of Pacific storms and even served as a coastal watch station during World War II.  Today’s visitors are more interested in spotting migrating whales than enemy boats or planes.

Mt. Hood National Forest, east of Portland, also saw many CCC projects. Camp Zigzag on Highway 26, was the longest running camp in the Northwest, and its workers built the Zigzag Ranger Station on the south side of the road. This compound consisting of various outbuildings is constructed in the Cascadian Rustic style using natural materials such as wood shingles, weatherboard, and native stone.  A similar, but more off-the-beaten-path ranger station can be visited on Forest Road 42, about 20 miles southeast of Government Camp. Here, at the Clackamas Lake Historic Ranger Station, are eleven buildings including a small visitor center. The ranger’s residence was built by the CCC in 1933 and is available for rental during the summer months.

Mt. Hood’s Timberline Lodge, probably the best known Depression-era project in Oregon, was constructed by the WPA, but the CCC worked on the lodge’s terracing, stonework, and landscaping. They built the Timberline Trail encircling Mt. Hood and worked on a variety of other projects in the area including Cloud Cap Inn and several campgrounds.

Malheur Nat'l Wildlife Visitor Center

In other parts of the state you’ll find evidence of the CCC at Crater Lake’s Rim Road and Rim Village, the rock work at Oregon Cave’s Chateau, the Visitor Center and Museum at the Malheur Wildlife Refuge, Jessie Honeymoon State Park near Florence, and the Dee Wright Observatory at the summit of McKenzie Pass.

The CCC program lasted only nine years.  By 1942, the country was gearing up for WWII and young men were leaving to join the army.  However, their hard work through those difficult Depression years left a significant contribution and lasting legacy to Oregon’s public lands.

 

 

 

Washington County Wineries

Western Washington Co. Vineyards

With the last vestiges of fall color still holding on in what has been a long and spectacular autumn in the Pacific Northwest, it's a perfect time to visit some of the wineries in Washington County. West of Portland and part of  the famed Willamette Valley Appellation, it is the closest winegrowing region to the city and has a long viticulture history, fabulous views, scenic rural roads, and offers a more intimate, laid-back, tasting room experience. If you have only visited large, high-profile California wineries, you are in for a big surprise.

Highway 26, also known as the Sunset Highway, is the main road heading west from Portland to the Coast, and a good route to begin a wine tour of Washington County.  Exit 61 offers an interesting choice. To the south, Shute Road leads into the 21^st century, high-tech complex known as the Silicon Forest. To the north, Helvetia Road leads into a country side of rolling pastures and wooden barns; looking not unlike it did in the late 19^th century when Swiss immigrants settled here. They named their crossroad community Helvetia, the old Roman term for Switzerland, and turned the fertile land into farms and dairies, some still operated by families of the original homesteaders.

Helvetia Tavern

A short distance north of Highway 26, Helvetia Road dips under a railroad trestle and on the other side is the bright red and green trimmed Helvetia Tavern. Formerly a country store, it is now a popular burger and beer joint and the jumbo, plate-sized hamburgers often appear on lists of Best Burgers in the Portland area. The interior has a homey, rustic feel with wooden floors and a décor featuring baseball caps and beer signs.

Beyond the tavern, the road makes a sharp turn to the west. On the right is Bishop Road with a sign pointing to Helvetia Winery and Christmas Tree Farm. The graveled, washboard road heads uphill passing the Pacific Crest Alpaca Farm where several hundred, purebred alpacas graze, gambol, and generally enjoy their sweeping view of the Coastal Range.

Helvetia Winery

Nearby is the Helvetia Winery, probably the only one in the world that doubles as a Christmas tree farm. Jacob Yungen operated a farm and winery here in the late 1800s when the area was known as Grape Hill. A century later, John Platt and ex-Congresswoman Elizabeth Furse purchased the farm and began growing wine grapes on the southern slopes, eventually opening their winery in 1996. The tasting room is located in the old Yungen farmhouse where, on weekends, visitors can enjoy samples of Chardonnay, Pinot Gris and Pinot Noir. A comfy back porch for lingering over wine, a lovely cottage garden with picnic tables, and a dozen or so dogs add to the rural charm. And, of course, Christmas trees are available for sale along with the wines.

If you purchase a tree, you must make Shafer Vineyards your next stop. Back on Highway 26, exit at Highway 6 and turn south on Gales Creek Road. Harvey and Miki Shafer began growing grapes at their pretty Gales Creek Valley farm in 1973. Like many growers who begin by selling grapes to local wineries, they took the familiar path to making their own wines and by 1981, celebrated their first crush. The 34 acres on south-facing slopes include Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc and Gewurtraminer; and you are likely to find a wide array of these varietals being poured at the tasting room bar. To decorate that Christmas tree, be sure to check out Miki’s Christmas shop offering a large assortment of high-end holiday ornaments and collectables. A shaded picnic area and gazebo offer a fine view of the valley and vineyards.

Vineyard views from Tualatin Estate Winery

Return north to the small town of Gales Creek and turn east on Capshaw Hill Road to Tualatin Estate Winery. At the end of a series of gravel roads, Tualatin Estate is not easy to reach, but it’s well worth the effort if only to enjoy the pastoral view of vineyards while sipping a glass of chilled, sparkling Muscat. A former tree nursery, the site was chosen by Californian Bill Fuller in 1973. Fuller had an enology degree from University of California-Davis and had worked for Louis Martini Winery in the Napa Valley for a number of years. He came to Oregon seeking good vineyard land and selected this south-sloping spot and began planting white wine grapes. In 1997, the winery was purchased by Willamette Valley Vineyards and now all the winemaking operations have moved to their facility in Turner, Oregon, near Salem. Wines include Pinot Noir, Pinot Blanc, Chardonnay, Late Harvest Gewurtztraminer, and the spectacular sparkling Muscat. There’s a lovely shaded picnic area with a great view of vineyards and distant hills.

David Hill Winery

From here, continue east on Capshaw Hill Road to Thatcher Kansas City Road and south to David Hill Road and David Hill Winery. The cheerful, lemon yellow, white-trimmed 19^th century farmhouse is the perfect setting for a tasting room in one of Oregon’s oldest wineries. In 1883, German immigrant, Ernest Reuter, homesteaded here and planted grapes on the surrounding hillsides. At one point, there were eight wineries in the area and it was known locally as Wine Hill. Most of the vineyards were pulled out during Prohibition and it wasn’t until 1965 when another pioneer, Charles Coury, was attracted to the farm’s grape growing potential. He established some of the first Pinot Noir vineyards in the northern Willamette Valley. Later, the winery experienced a number of changes of ownership, becoming Reuter’s Hill Winery, then Laurel Ridge. In 1992, Milan and Jean Stoyanov bought the property and undertook an extensive renovation of the farmhouse and winery. They chose the name David Hill to honor an early Oregon pioneer. The surrounding vineyards are planted in Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Chardonnay and Gewurtraminer. When leaving the winery, head uphill a short distance above the tasting room for a classic view of vineyards, forests, and farmland. Return via David Hill Road to Highway 47 and head south. In the little town of Dilley, follow the blue directional signs to Montinore. At the end of the oak-lined lane is a southern-style mansion where it would not be at all strange to see Miss Scarlet in her hoop skirt standing on the columned porch sipping a chilled glass of Riesling. Built in 1905 by John Forbis, a former attorney for Anaconda Copper in Montana, the ranch was named Montinore, a contraction of Montana in Oregon.

Montinore

 With over 585 acres producing 40,000 cases, Montinore is one of the largest Oregon wineries. Owner Rudy Marchesi combines traditional wine making with biodynamic vineyard management to produce highly regarded Pinot Noirs, Gewurtztraminer, Pinot Gris, Riesling and Muller Thurgau. The tasting room’s large picture windows offer an expansive view of the vineyards and the friendly staff will pour your choice of five wines for $5.

While not techically in Washington County, but too close by to miss its special fall foliage view, is Elk Cove Winery. From Montinore, continue south on Hwy. 47 to the small town of Gaston and turn west onto Olson Rd. for about three miles. The tasting room at Elk Cove offers stunning vistas, some equally stunning wines, and a mounted Roosevelt Elk head over the bar.

Vineyards at Elk Cove

There are more than two dozen wineries scattered about Washington County and almost all have tasting rooms. For a good map of the region showing the little, country roads, links to wineries, a video and suggested driving tour check out this informative web site sponsored by the Washington County Visitors Association. It also features nearby restaurants, accommodations, and other area attractions.

Down by the Old Mill Stream



An 18’ water wheel adorns the outside of the Bob’s Red Mill Visitors’ Center in Milwaukie, Ore. While its function is largely decorative, there was a time when these wheels dotted the countryside of rural America. For centuries, it was the force of water that turned these wheels, that engaged the gears, that revolved the millstones, that ground the grain, that fed the farmers and their families. Wherever there was agriculture, there were mills and the Pacific Northwest was no exception. The first grist mill was built at Ft. Vancouver in 1828 and was soon joined by many more up and down the Willamette Valley. Not only were they an important part of the food-chain, mills often became the community social center. Neighbors would gather to gossip and exchange news while the miller ground their grain. Today, grist mills have disappeared from the landscape, but a few survivors in the area remind us of this important part of farming history.

Butte Creek Mill and Store

Claiming to be the last original, operating, water-powered, grist mill west of the Mississippi, the Butte Creek Mill, is located in Eagle Point, about 12 miles east of Medford. The three-story building on the banks of Little Butte Creek dates to 1872 and was one of the first flour mills in the Rogue River Valley. Its 1400 lb. millstones were quarried in France, milled in Illinois, carried by ship around Cape Horn to Crescent City, California, and hauled by wagon train over the Siskiyou Mountains to the mill. Today, visitors can watch the miller at work and observe the hand hewn timbers and old machinery. Also in the building is a homey country store selling freshly ground grains, cereals, and pancake mixes. 

Thompson's Mills State Heritage Site

Oregon’s oldest surviving flour mill was recently saved from dilapidation by the State of Oregon Parks and Recreation Department. Dating back to 1856, Thompson’s Mills, once known as Boston Mill, was purchased in 2007, renovated, and developed into a living history museum describing Willamette Valley agriculture in the 19^th century. Inside the five-story mill, you'll find antique machinery, hand-hewn beams, and interpretive exhibits. The mill is the only one remaining of seven mills along the Calapooia River in Linn County.

Cedar Creek Grist Mill

North of Portland and east of Woodland, Washington, is the Cedar Creek Grist Mill. Tucked away in an idyllic, forested gorge, it remains the only grain-grinding mill in Washington that has maintained its original structural integrity and still uses water power and millstones. Built in 1876, the mill was used for years by families throughout north Clark County, but by the turn of the century it had transitioned to a machine shop and gradually fell into decline. Fortunately, a group of dedicated volunteers rescued and restored the old mill and today it serves as a working museum. On weekends, visitors are invited inside to admire the intricate system of pulleys, gears, and belts, and observe the milling process. In fact, if you bring your own grain, they will grind it for you. At the mill site is one of the few covered bridges in Washington.

Bob's Red Mill

By the early 1900s, most of these labor-intensive mills and their grain-grinding stones were replaced by electric power and high-speed steel rollers. Farmers no longer grew their own grain, and a preference developed for white flour and store-bought bread.  Stone milling became increasingly rare. Today, however, there is a renewed appreciation for this old-time process, and many believe the highest quality flours are made by the slow, cool grinding of stones. Grains are crushed without generating excess heat, thus preserving the nutritional value and flavor of the flour.

Bob’s Red Mill is one of the few commercial mills still using this traditional milling process. While electricity has replaced water-power, the grains are still ground by 19^th century, French quartz millstones acquired from old mills. The Visitors Center, designed to be a replica of the original mill in Oregon City, includes an outlet store, an enormous selection of bulk grains, bakery, deli, cooking classes, and milling display.

Steve is the official tour guide at the Thompson's Mill

I-5 Iris Gardens

Driving south on I-5, just beyond the Brooks Exit (between Woodburn and Salem), look to your right for a bright patch of colors.  At 70 miles an hour, it's only a blur, so take the time and exit at Brooks for an amazing, free, visual treat. From the exit, head west to the first stop sign and turn south (left) on River Road for about a couple miles to Quinaby Road. Turn left and in a short distance, you'll see the sign on the left for Schreiner's Iris Gardens.

Here you will discover ten acres of the most stunning display gardens; I have visited a number of times and am still awestruck when I first walk into the garden. While irises are the centerpiece of this floral show, other delights include poppies, lupines, peonies, rhodos, and columbines. If you think of irises in terms of blue or yellow, you'll be amazed to see how many hues and color combinations exist.

 The Schreiner family has been growing and hybridizing irises in the Willamette Valley since the early 1920s. They must be doing something right, since they have more medals than Michael Phelps displayed on the walls.


Every spring, they host a show and this year's has been extended until Sunday, June 12 because of the cool, wet growing season. After that, the gift shop and flower sales end, but the garden remains open for exploring. The flowers should last at least another week or two, depending on the weather, and it is well worth the short detour from the freeway.

The Aurora colony: Oregon's First Commune

 A few years ago, the little town of Aurora, a crossroad on highway 99E between Canby and Hubbard, celebrated its 150^th birthday. It was back in 1856 that Dr. William Keil, a charismatic evangelist and self-taught doctor, brought some of his followers across the Oregon Trail from their communal colony in Bethel, Missouri, in search of good farming land.
What an odd procession this band of believers must have made as they headed west across the prairies with a pickled corpse leading the train of 35 covered wagons. Before departing Missouri, Keil promised his oldest son that he could lead the wagons; unfortunately, the lad died of malaria before departure. True to his word, Keil had the body placed in a tin-lined coffin filled with Golden Rule Whiskey to keep it preserved until burial in the new colony.

The group, mostly German immigrants, purchased land with an established sawmill and grist mill on the banks of the Pudding River, a day’s ride south of Oregon City. Keil named the town Aurora after his daughter. They were soon joined by other colony members and, through hard work and communal efficiencies, they eventually owned 15,000 acres, and the town soared to 600 residents.

The guiding principle of the Aurora Colony was Christian communal living: members contributed products from their efforts in the fields and shops and took what they needed. Several such communal colonies were scattered throughout New England and the Midwest, but Aurora was the only such settlement in the Pacific Northwest.

The colonists soon became well known throughout the Willamette Valley for their brass band, extensive orchards, high-quality quilts, and bountiful ham and sausage dinners served at the local hotel. In 1877, Keil died suddenly, and with no heir apparent or strong successor, the community dissolved, spreading the communal property among the individual members. The town continued to exist as a prosperous farming community. Sadly, many of the original colony structures including Keil’s home, the church, and hotel were destroyed over the years. In 1974, Aurora was listed as a National Historic District, Oregon’s first.

Today, Aurora bills itself as Oregon’s antique capital and with one antique shop for every 20 residents, who could dispute that claim? On weekends, the town swells with shoppers looking for that perfect, must-have doodad or piece of furniture for their homes. Even though busy highway 99E bisects the town, Aurora still retains much of its historical character.

The story of the utopian past is well-preserved and interpreted at the Old Aurora Colony Museum at the corner of 2^nd and Liberty. Located in an original colony building, the ox barn, the museum offers an informative video about the colony and features old photos of the town and displays of band instruments, woven goods, furniture, and spinning wheels. Behind the barn are several other buildings including a communal wash house, shed, one of the original houses, and a log cabin relocated to the site.

Mt. Angel Abbey: A Quiet Place Close By

A verse from the Book of Mark states, “Come away to a quiet place by yourself and rest awhile.” There is no quieter place to escape the stresses of contemporary life, or to steal some quite time for contemplation and reflection than the Mt. Angel Abbey.
Located about 40 miles south of Portland, the abbey sits on a hilltop above the town of Mt. Angel. The serene setting provides a stunning view of four volcanoes, the foothills of the Cascades, and a great chunk of verdant, Willamette Valley farmland. Wide lawns, sturdy Romanesque brick buildings, grand old trees, and black-robed monks strolling across campus contribute to the site’s special ambiance.

The abbey was founded in 1882, by Benedictine monks from the Engelberg Abbey in Switzerland. Fearing religious suppression in their own country, several monks were dispatched to America to seek a place of possible refuge. Their travels took them to Missouri, California, and finally to the young state of Oregon. While life in the Wild West was not always easy, they managed to survive huge debts, internal squabbles, and a series of devastating fires to develop a thriving religious community. Today, the abbey continues preserving the 1500-year monastic tradition of work, prayer, and study. In addition to the 50 or so resident monks, about 150 seminarians are at the abbey training and studying for the priesthood.
People of all faiths are invited to enjoy the Benedictine tradition of hospitality in a visit to the abbey. For those seeking that “quiet place” for some spiritual r&r, the retreat house offers simple rooms for overnight or short term stays. At $77 (single room) per day ($124 double), guests receive three buffet meals, a million dollar view, an escape from television, and the opportunity to participate in the many daily prayer services sung by the monks.

Visitors are invited to use, or at least take a peek at, the abbey’s magnificent library. Designed by world-famous Finnish architect, Alvar Aalto, the building features a fan-shaped plan with skylights and rows of high windows. “Even on the gloomiest of Oregon winter days, the room is flooded with bright, natural light,” according to the librarian. The collection includes approximately 250,000 volumes with an emphasis on religion, philosophy, and the humanities. All the furniture and fixtures in the library were designed by Aalto, and reflect a modern, Scandinavian sleekness and simplicity.
Also of interest to visitors are two small, but unusual museums. The first, sometimes referred to as the natural history museum, displays a huge collection of stuffed mammals and birds donated to the abbey by an avid wild game hunter. It certainly serves as a testimony to the art of taxidermy. Other exhibits, displayed on a rotating basis, feature small collections of odds and ends ranging from glass paperweights to pink coral formations, all donated to the monks for safekeeping. Sadly, the world’s largest hairball has been rotated out of the current exhibition, but the two-headed calf is on display!

The other museum reflects one monk’s keen interest in the “Old Believers,” a breakaway sect of the Russian Orthodox church. Choosing to ignore reforms, they continue to practice the older rites and rituals, and lead a more traditional lifestyle. The museum chronicles their troubled history of persecution, first from the Tsars and then the Communists; and their subsequent flight for refuge in such far-flung destinations as China, Tibet, Brazil, and the Willamette Valley. The community of over 10,000 Old Believers living south of Woodburn donated many of the handicrafts, clothing, paintings and icons displayed in the museum.
For the last 40 years, the abbey has presented an annual Bach Festival in late July. On each of three evenings, the event begins with the monks singing Vespers in the Abbey Church, followed by a half hour recital played on the grand organ. Guests then move to the grassy, front lawn to enjoy a picnic supper prepared by the abbey. More concert music in the Damian Center concludes the evening. Tickets can be ordered on line, but be forewarned this event usually sells out. In the midst of the 21st century, the traditional and simple lifestyle of the monks may seem slightly archaic. Nonetheless, even monasteries maintain websites and you may visit theirs’ at http://www.mountangelabbey.org./

Woodburn: More Than a Mall

The back-to-school shopping frenzy is in full swing, and many folks will be making the trek to the Woodburn Company Stores, off I-5 between Portland and Salem. With over 100 stores, it is Oregon’s largest outlet center and the perfect place to pick up bargains.
Most shoppers rarely venture over the freeway to the east side and the town of Woodburn, and that’s a shame. They’re missing one of the most culturally diverse communities in Oregon, where the Chamber of Commerce welcomes people in English, Spanish, and Russian.

Settlemier House

The area was originally settled by Calapooya Indians and retired French-Canadian fur trappers, hence the name French Prairie. But it was the arrival of Jesse Settlemier in 1863 that led to the development of the town of Woodburn. Settlemier purchased land and established a nursery specializing in fruit and ornamental trees. When the Oregon and California Railroad arrived in the early 1870s, he platted the downtown section near the tracks and offered a city lot to anyone who would put a building on it.
The town of Woodburn grew quickly and Settlemier thrived as well. In 1892 he built a stunning, 14-room, Queen Anne Victorian home reflecting his wealth and status in the community. The property stands on a large, wooded lot on Settlemier Avenue and is owned and cared for by the French Prairie Historical Society. The home is open to the public on the first Sunday of every month.

President Obama ate here!

Agri-business has always been the life blood of Woodburn. Originally, the local economy was based on farm products including berries, hazelnuts, hops, and other fruits and vegetables. Today large nurseries and greenhouses dominate the scene and their labor-intensive operations have created a demand for year-round employees. Seasonal Mexican workers have been replaced by permanent laborers and their families. The Woodburn schools are now over 70% Hispanic and the downtown area is filled with thriving businesses catering to the needs and interests of the Hispanic community. In between the bakeries, shops, and taquerias (be sure to check out Luis's) on Front Street, is the Woodburn Historic Museum. The entrance is surrounded by a replica of an arch touting Woodburn as the World’s Berry Center, and inside is a collection of the town’s memorabilia from World War II recruitment posters to high school class photos. The museum is open Saturdays only.

Down the street, in the shadow of the water tower, is a delightful surprise for railroad buffs. Engine 1785 is a vintage, 1902 Southern Pacific steam engine beautifully restored by the Oregon Railway Historical Society. Engines like this once carried freight and passengers up and down the West Coast, and Union Pacific trains still whiz through the center of town.
In addition to its sizeable Hispanic population, Woodburn is also home to a large group of Russian Old Believers. These traditionalists broke away from the Orthodox Church during a period of reforms, and, for years, were persecuted by Tsarist and Communist Russia. During the Cold War, charities were instrumental in assisting Christians in migrating from Communist countries and over 10,000 Old Believers ended up in Oregon, mostly in the Woodburn area. South of town, their onion-domed churches are scattered across the farmland. The one at the end of Bethlehem Road with its gold domes and brightly painted façade is strikingly beautiful.

Nearby, on Howell Prairie Road, is the Bauman Farms store, a 4th generation family farm and garden center. In the summer, the grounds are a riot of color with display gardens and greenhouses full of flowers and humongous, hanging baskets. Inside, the season’s bounty of fruits and vegetables, homemade jams and jellies, and fresh bakery products may be purchased.
A visit to the town of Woodburn should certainly be on every outlet shopper’s list.

Corvallis' DaVinci Days July 16-18

This weekend, the college town of Corvallis will be hosting its most creative and regarded special event,  DaVinci Days offering a mash-up of music, art, science, and technology.

Among the state’s oldest towns, Corvallis was platted by Samuel Avery in 1847 at the confluence of the Marys and Willamette Rivers, about 80 miles south of Portland. It grew as a lumber, agricultural and regional trading center, and briefly served as capital of the Oregon Territory until supplanted by Salem. Things changed for the town in 1868, when the Oregon Assembly designated the private college of Corvallis Academy to be the first, state-supported institution for higher education. Known as the Agriculture College of the State of Oregon, it experienced several name changes over the years, and we know it now as Oregon State University.
The campus occupies a large chunk of real estate, almost 400 acres, and with more than 20,000 students, its influence on this small town is immense. The attractive campus features a number of historical structures and an open space designed by famed landscape architect, John Olmsted. Two years ago, the campus was designated a National Historic District, the only college in Oregon to be awarded this distinction.

While the school dominates one side of town, the centerpiece of the downtown area is the Benton County Courthouse. Dating back to 1888, it is the oldest Oregon courthouse still used for its original purpose. With its four stories, 110-foot clock tower, and bright white paint, the building resembles a giant, frosted wedding cake. While in the downtown area, be sure to check out the pleasant walking path along the Willamette River; the Book Bin, crammed with new and used books; and maybe try some homemade sweets at Bursts Chocolates.
Like most college towns, Corvallis offers a wide selection of cultural events. The focal point of the local art scene, The Arts Center, is located in a former Episcopalian church and is known for its exhibitions of local and national artists, and music concert series. In downtown, the Majestic Theater, a restored 1913 vaudeville house, offers live theater and old movies. The university, with its performances, exhibits, and lectures, adds to the vibrant cultural life, and an assortment of fairs and festivals during the year enliven the mix. Corvallis enjoys a reputation for being one of the greenest communities around, even by Oregon standards. Last year, it was voted Best Green City in the nation by Country Home magazine, and according to a recent EPA report, Corvallis buys more power from renewable sources than any other city in the country. There are miles of bike paths and visitors can tour the town in a human-powered pedicab.

Beyond town, there are numerous attractions depending on your interests. In nearby Philomath is the Benton County Historical Society Museum. Located in a 1867 brick building that once housed Philomath College, the museum offers an eclectic collection of items including at 1904 Oregon State College beanie, 1957 Kodak Brownie Starlight camera, a large collection of fluorescent rocks, 1927 Buck Rogers wind-up spaceship, a bright red rotary dial telephone, and much, much more. Also of historical interest are several close-by covered bridges and the Soap Creek Schoolhouse, a cute one-room school in rural Soap Creek Valley.

  Birders will enjoy visiting any of the three local, national wildlife refuges; oenophiles will find several nearby wineries to sample, and sports fans will want to check out OSU’s game schedule.

When Bridges Covered Oregon

Bridges, so the saying goes, are America’s cathedrals. They inspire a range of emotions from awe to pride, but no bridge generates more affection than the humble, country, covered bridge. While most of these bridges are concentrated in the eastern states of New England, Pennsylvania and Ohio, Oregon can claim the number five spot and proudly boast of having the largest collection of covered bridges west of the Mississippi. Oregon’s tradition of bridge building dates back to 1851, when the first one was constructed in Oregon City. With the state’s vast forests of Douglas fir, wood was the obvious and logical building material, but not necessarily the best. A wooden plank bridge deck might last about eight or nine years before succumbing to the damp Northwest climate. On the other hand, one covered in a house frame to protect the deck and large timber trusses from the elements, could survive ten times longer. Soon covered bridges dotted the countryside, particularly in the Willamette Valley and southern timber counties. By the early part of the 1900s, the state was home to over 450 covered bridges.

Over time, however, new construction materials like steel, iron, and concrete made the wood bridges obsolete. The cost of maintaining these structures grew so dramatically that county and state highway departments chose to replace them with concrete spans. Many were dismantled and destroyed. Today, only 50 bridges remain in the state, largely through the efforts of local historical groups and the Oregon state legislature which provided funding for their preservation.

A good place to view a variety of these remaining links to the past is the small town of Scio, about 25 miles southeast of Salem in Linn County. Scio bills itself as “The Covered Bridge Capital of the West” and has five bridges within a ten mile radius, most of them spanning Thomas Creek The most colorful of the lot is the Shimanek Bridge, painted bright red with a white trim on its Gothic-style, louvered windows. Built in 1966, it is the area’s newest bridge replacing four earlier ones destroyed in floods and storms.
Downstream, on the other side of Scio, is the Gilkey Bridge, dating back to 1936. Recently, the bridge experienced a run of bad luck. In 1997, an over-loaded vehicle stressed the bridge creating serious damage and forcing its closure for a year of extensive repairs. In 2008, a large, farm service truck smashed into the bridge causing damage to the roof and side-support timbers. Once again, the bridge had to be closed for repairs but is back in business now.

The bridge offering the most attractive setting is the Larwood Bridge in a county wayside park of the same name. Here the Roaring River flows into Crabtree Creek, creating a geographical phenomenon so unusual, i.e. river flows into creek, it made it into Ripley’s Believe It Or Not. A pleasant, shaded picnic area offers a fine view of the bridge, streams, and the remnants of an old water-powered mill.

The Hannah Bridge, also dating to 1936 and spanning Thomas Creek, has open walls and exposed beams, making it one of the most attractive. Finally, the Hoffman Bridge over Crabtree Creek was built mostly with hand tools and adz marks are still visible in the upper timbers.

To learn more about the area’s covered bridges, a visit to the Depot Museum (open weekends only) in Scio is a must. Located in the old train depot from West Scio, the museum houses a collection of historical items from local pioneer families and has a notebook of clippings and early photos of area bridges that have been destroyed or replaced. A brochure is available detailing a bicycle and driving tour that visits all the local bridges.