Walla Walla: Well Worth the Drive

Vineyards south of Walla Walla

In Walla Walla, visitors can discover how a sun-bleached, arid corner of Eastern Washington developed into a world-class wine growing region, and learn the unlikely connection between measles and the establishment of the state of Oregon.

Whitman Historic Park

The town, one of the oldest in Washington, had long been on the trade route of a number of Indian tribes who gave it the name, Walla Walla, meaning “many waters.”  In 1836, Dr. Marcus Whitman and his wife Narcissa arrived to establish a missionary and convert the Cayuse to Christianity. While they were not entirely successful in creating farmers out of traditionally nomadic tribesmen, the mission thrived and became an important rest stop on the Oregon Trail. One of the wagon trains brought with it an epidemic of measles.  Dr. Whitman worked tirelessly to treat his patients and was successful with the white settlers, but the natives, who had no prior exposure or immunity to the disease, were decimated.  Nearly one-half the tribe died during the epidemic and the Cayuse could only assume the disease was a ploy to rid the area of the tribe and take over their land. With that in mind, a group attacked the mission killing Whitman, his wife, and twelve others. When word of the massacre reached Washington, DC, Congress acted quickly to create the Oregon Territory, the first in the West.

Seven Hills Tasting Room

Walla Walla went on to become a thriving, regional agriculture center best known for wheat, sweet onions, frozen peas, and the state penitentiary. It can boast of the West’s oldest college (Whitman College), first commercial bank in the Northwest, and oldest, continuous symphony west of the Mississippi River. With its attractive downtown, historical buildings, tree-shaded streets, and college campus, Walla Walla seemed more like a small town transplanted from New England. But, in the 1970s, things changed for this sleepy college town as it transformed itself into an important food and wine destination.

Gary Figgins was an avid home winemaker with local roots going back to 1905 when his Italian grandparents settled in the area. In 1974, he planted Cabernet Sauvignon and Riesling grapes and created Leonetti Cellar. His wines were so successful that it soon became apparent to others that Walla Walla just might be the next Napa Valley. Today, there are nearly 100 wineries in the region and over 1800 acres of land planted in vineyards.

At first glance, the landscape of the Walla Walla Valley looks like an unlikely place for grapes to thrive; even a cactus would look more at home here. However, a number of combining factors make it a prime grape-growing region. The soil, deposited by the Ice Age Floods of 10,000 years ago, consists of loam, silt, loess and small rocks, providing excellent drainage for the vines.  Long sunny days and cool nights create perfect growing conditions, and the arid climate requires irrigation for controllable water management of the vines.

L'Ecole 41 Tasting Room

With so many wineries and tasting rooms to choose from, a visit can seem a bit overwhelming. The first step is to check out the comprehensive Winery Guide produced by the Walla Walla Valley Wine Alliance. It can be viewed online, picked up in local hotels and shops, or ordered at 509-526-3117.  Offering detailed maps and winery descriptions and hours, it makes planning a wine tasting route much easier. Most of the wineries are concentrated in several areas: west of town along U.S. 12, in the downtown area, near the airport, and south of town towards the Oregon border.

The burgeoning wine industry and increase in tourists have created a demand for fine restaurants with exciting menus and extensive wine lists. Several imaginative, young chefs from the Seattle area have migrated to Walla Walla and opened restaurants to fill that need. What other small town in Eastern Washington has wood-grilled octopus and wild boar lasagna on the menu?

Whitman Monument

Beyond wine and food, the town offers some pleasant shopping, art galleries, and walking tours of the downtown, college campus, and historic neighborhoods. A few miles west of town is the Whitman Mission Historic Site with a short film and museum telling the sad tale of the Whitmans. While the original buildings are long gone, a marked trail meanders through the mission site. On a small knoll, stands a monument to the Whitmans with an expansive view of the Walla Walla Valley.  One wonders what Marcus and Narcissa would have thought about the grilled octopus and $40 bottles of Syrah now available in their little mission town.

Washington County Wineries

Western Washington Co. Vineyards

With the last vestiges of fall color still holding on in what has been a long and spectacular autumn in the Pacific Northwest, it's a perfect time to visit some of the wineries in Washington County. West of Portland and part of  the famed Willamette Valley Appellation, it is the closest winegrowing region to the city and has a long viticulture history, fabulous views, scenic rural roads, and offers a more intimate, laid-back, tasting room experience. If you have only visited large, high-profile California wineries, you are in for a big surprise.

Highway 26, also known as the Sunset Highway, is the main road heading west from Portland to the Coast, and a good route to begin a wine tour of Washington County.  Exit 61 offers an interesting choice. To the south, Shute Road leads into the 21^st century, high-tech complex known as the Silicon Forest. To the north, Helvetia Road leads into a country side of rolling pastures and wooden barns; looking not unlike it did in the late 19^th century when Swiss immigrants settled here. They named their crossroad community Helvetia, the old Roman term for Switzerland, and turned the fertile land into farms and dairies, some still operated by families of the original homesteaders.

Helvetia Tavern

A short distance north of Highway 26, Helvetia Road dips under a railroad trestle and on the other side is the bright red and green trimmed Helvetia Tavern. Formerly a country store, it is now a popular burger and beer joint and the jumbo, plate-sized hamburgers often appear on lists of Best Burgers in the Portland area. The interior has a homey, rustic feel with wooden floors and a décor featuring baseball caps and beer signs.

Beyond the tavern, the road makes a sharp turn to the west. On the right is Bishop Road with a sign pointing to Helvetia Winery and Christmas Tree Farm. The graveled, washboard road heads uphill passing the Pacific Crest Alpaca Farm where several hundred, purebred alpacas graze, gambol, and generally enjoy their sweeping view of the Coastal Range.

Helvetia Winery

Nearby is the Helvetia Winery, probably the only one in the world that doubles as a Christmas tree farm. Jacob Yungen operated a farm and winery here in the late 1800s when the area was known as Grape Hill. A century later, John Platt and ex-Congresswoman Elizabeth Furse purchased the farm and began growing wine grapes on the southern slopes, eventually opening their winery in 1996. The tasting room is located in the old Yungen farmhouse where, on weekends, visitors can enjoy samples of Chardonnay, Pinot Gris and Pinot Noir. A comfy back porch for lingering over wine, a lovely cottage garden with picnic tables, and a dozen or so dogs add to the rural charm. And, of course, Christmas trees are available for sale along with the wines.

If you purchase a tree, you must make Shafer Vineyards your next stop. Back on Highway 26, exit at Highway 6 and turn south on Gales Creek Road. Harvey and Miki Shafer began growing grapes at their pretty Gales Creek Valley farm in 1973. Like many growers who begin by selling grapes to local wineries, they took the familiar path to making their own wines and by 1981, celebrated their first crush. The 34 acres on south-facing slopes include Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc and Gewurtraminer; and you are likely to find a wide array of these varietals being poured at the tasting room bar. To decorate that Christmas tree, be sure to check out Miki’s Christmas shop offering a large assortment of high-end holiday ornaments and collectables. A shaded picnic area and gazebo offer a fine view of the valley and vineyards.

Vineyard views from Tualatin Estate Winery

Return north to the small town of Gales Creek and turn east on Capshaw Hill Road to Tualatin Estate Winery. At the end of a series of gravel roads, Tualatin Estate is not easy to reach, but it’s well worth the effort if only to enjoy the pastoral view of vineyards while sipping a glass of chilled, sparkling Muscat. A former tree nursery, the site was chosen by Californian Bill Fuller in 1973. Fuller had an enology degree from University of California-Davis and had worked for Louis Martini Winery in the Napa Valley for a number of years. He came to Oregon seeking good vineyard land and selected this south-sloping spot and began planting white wine grapes. In 1997, the winery was purchased by Willamette Valley Vineyards and now all the winemaking operations have moved to their facility in Turner, Oregon, near Salem. Wines include Pinot Noir, Pinot Blanc, Chardonnay, Late Harvest Gewurtztraminer, and the spectacular sparkling Muscat. There’s a lovely shaded picnic area with a great view of vineyards and distant hills.

David Hill Winery

From here, continue east on Capshaw Hill Road to Thatcher Kansas City Road and south to David Hill Road and David Hill Winery. The cheerful, lemon yellow, white-trimmed 19^th century farmhouse is the perfect setting for a tasting room in one of Oregon’s oldest wineries. In 1883, German immigrant, Ernest Reuter, homesteaded here and planted grapes on the surrounding hillsides. At one point, there were eight wineries in the area and it was known locally as Wine Hill. Most of the vineyards were pulled out during Prohibition and it wasn’t until 1965 when another pioneer, Charles Coury, was attracted to the farm’s grape growing potential. He established some of the first Pinot Noir vineyards in the northern Willamette Valley. Later, the winery experienced a number of changes of ownership, becoming Reuter’s Hill Winery, then Laurel Ridge. In 1992, Milan and Jean Stoyanov bought the property and undertook an extensive renovation of the farmhouse and winery. They chose the name David Hill to honor an early Oregon pioneer. The surrounding vineyards are planted in Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Chardonnay and Gewurtraminer. When leaving the winery, head uphill a short distance above the tasting room for a classic view of vineyards, forests, and farmland. Return via David Hill Road to Highway 47 and head south. In the little town of Dilley, follow the blue directional signs to Montinore. At the end of the oak-lined lane is a southern-style mansion where it would not be at all strange to see Miss Scarlet in her hoop skirt standing on the columned porch sipping a chilled glass of Riesling. Built in 1905 by John Forbis, a former attorney for Anaconda Copper in Montana, the ranch was named Montinore, a contraction of Montana in Oregon.

Montinore

 With over 585 acres producing 40,000 cases, Montinore is one of the largest Oregon wineries. Owner Rudy Marchesi combines traditional wine making with biodynamic vineyard management to produce highly regarded Pinot Noirs, Gewurtztraminer, Pinot Gris, Riesling and Muller Thurgau. The tasting room’s large picture windows offer an expansive view of the vineyards and the friendly staff will pour your choice of five wines for $5.

While not techically in Washington County, but too close by to miss its special fall foliage view, is Elk Cove Winery. From Montinore, continue south on Hwy. 47 to the small town of Gaston and turn west onto Olson Rd. for about three miles. The tasting room at Elk Cove offers stunning vistas, some equally stunning wines, and a mounted Roosevelt Elk head over the bar.

Vineyards at Elk Cove

There are more than two dozen wineries scattered about Washington County and almost all have tasting rooms. For a good map of the region showing the little, country roads, links to wineries, a video and suggested driving tour check out this informative web site sponsored by the Washington County Visitors Association. It also features nearby restaurants, accommodations, and other area attractions.

Sampling Southern Oregon

If you go to Costco simply to graze on the food samples, you are going to love Southern Oregon. Since the early 1900s, the area has been famous as a top fruit producer and was home to some of Oregon’s first wineries. Today, the Rogue River Valley produces 10,000 acres of pears and is the headquarters of fruit distributing giant Harry and David. There are also dozens of local artisan food producers, wineries, and organic farms that contribute to this region’s reputation as a gourmet Garden of Eden.

Begin your tasting tour in Grants Pass. When you reach the downtown section and the huge banner sign proclaiming, “It’s the Climate!” roll down the car window and sniff the air. If conditions are right, you should get a strong whiff of freshly popped corn and who can resist? The source of this enticing aroma is Blind George’s Popcorn located in an old-fashioned newsstand on historic G Street. Started in 1922 by George Spencer, who really was blind, this tiny shop’s popcorn has become a Grants Pass tradition. You can sample an amazing array of flavors from banana to jalapeno cheese, but the plain, old-fashioned buttered popcorn is hard to beat.

Also located in Grants Pass is Cary’s of Oregon, producers of superb English toffee…think Heath Bar only a thousand times better. Cooking maven Rachael Ray chose it as her favorite snack food. The toffee, based on a family recipe, is available plain or with various combinations of dark and milk chocolate, hazelnuts, and almonds. The small retail room offers samples, as well as one-pound bags of seconds at a discounted price.



Applegate Valley

 From Grants Pass, Highway 238, follows the Applegate River south and east towards Jacksonville through some gorgeous countryside. Sunset Magazine described the Applegate Valley as “wine country the way it used to be,” an acknowledgment of its idyllic setting and rural ambiance. The Siskiyou Mountains protect the region from coastal influence and create a unique grape growing region much warmer than the Willamette Valley. Heat-loving varietals like Cabernet, Syrah and Temparnello do quite well here. More than a dozen wineries in the valley welcome visitors and offer an opportunity to sample wines.

Be sure to visit Schmidt Family Vineyards, a new winery with a spectacular tasting room. Designed in the craftsman style, it resembles a ski lodge with its stone fireplace, soaring ceilings and wooden, open beams. The grounds are filled with herb and flower gardens; a large pond, and beautiful landscaping make it a perfect place for a picnic.

If you have worked up an appetite after all this wine tasting, and are adventurous enough to try a rustic, out-of-the-way roadhouse, stop at the McKee Bridge Restaurant and Store, south of Ruch, along the Applegate River. Extremely popular with locals and fishermen, the restaurant has been serving its famous fried chicken and big, hearty breakfasts for over 70 years. Just outside the restaurant is the McKee covered bridge with a pretty, shaded picnic area along the river.

In Jacksonville, you will find Gary West Smoked Meats. Here you may sample an assortment of hickory-smoked steak strips, jerky, and sausages made from a recipe that traveled over the Oregon Trail. This is not your gas station jerky, but flavorful and tender strips of beef, buffalo, or elk meat seasoned to perfection.

In nearby Central Point, are two culinary gems located next to each other in a nondescript industrial area. The first is the Rogue Creamery where milk from grass-fed, local cows is transformed into international award-winning cheeses. Their famous blue cheeses as well as cheddars and curds are available for tasting in the small retail store. Next door is Lillie Belle Chocolates. Jeff Shepherd began concocting chocolates in his own kitchen using organic berries from his farm. Today, his homemade artisan caramels, truffles and bon bons come in a variety of unusual flavors. Not only do they taste great, but they are artistic masterpieces almost too pretty to eat.

Blue cheese and chocolates!

Down the road in Phoenix, a little north of Ashland, is Rising Sun Farms. The owners started raising organic basil and creating fresh pesto sauces over 25 years ago and now offer a variety of cheese tortas and vinegar drizzles as well. Their retail store showcases these products along with a wine-tasting bar.

This is just a sampling of the food scene in Southern Oregon. There are many more artisan food producers, wineries, farmers’ markets and restaurants to enjoy. Check out this web site for links to these and other edible delights: http://www.oregonwineandfarmtour.com./

A Visit to the Poor Farm

If tax preparation has left you feeling it's time for a visit to the poor farm, there’s one close to Portland uniquely suited for those taxpayer blues. It even boasts of a brewery, distillery, and winery all within walking distance.

Edgefield, located in Troutdale, about 20 minutes east of Portland, is the lovingly restored, reincarnation of the old Multnomah County Poor Farm. Begun in 1911, the farm provided a refuge for the county’s indigent population.

At its peak in the 1920s and 30s, the farm operated a dairy, cannery, meat packing plant, and was successful in providing enough food to feed its nearly 500 occupants as well as the county jail, hospital, and juvenile facility. The extensive grounds included the brick main building where the residents lived, as well as many service buildings and barns.
During World War II, the population increased with the arrival of sick and wounded soldiers. But, the boom times after the war, along with changes in the social welfare system signaled the decline of the poor farm. Caring for its growing elderly and sickly population created a shift in focus and the farm was renamed Edgefield Manor in the late 1950s. Over time, the land was leased to a local farmer, the dairy herd sold, and the main lodge became a nursing home.

The cost of upgrading the aging facility was too much for the County, and residents were moved into private facilities with the last one leaving in 1982. The empty buildings soon became a popular target for vandals and graffiti artists. Eventually, the County concluded the structures were dilapidated beyond repair and should be razed.
The local historical society challenged this decision, thus setting off years of bureaucratic battles. Finally, the farm was listed in the National Register of Historic Places, saving it from destruction, but not from continuing deterioration.
In 1988, the McMenamin brothers, owners of several pubs and breweries in Oregon, toured the facility, saw its potential, and bought it from the County for $500,000. It took years of renovation and reconstruction to upgrade the property to its current grandeur.
Today, Edgefield is the crown jewel of the McMenamins’ microbrewery empire. In the Main Lodge, the old dorm rooms have been converted to over 100 bed and breakfast rooms ranging in price from $30-$175. The men’s dining room is now the Black Rabbit Restaurant, while the women’s dining room is the ballroom, a popular venue for weddings.

To remove some of the institutional feel of the building, the walls, doors, and even exposed pipes are covered with paintings by local artists. A walk down the corridors is like a visit to an art gallery. Whimsical murals run the entire length of the third floor and reveal the history of the farm as does the mural surrounding the Black Rabbit restaurant. Free guided tours help sort out the symbolism and tell the tale of some of the more colorful guests.
The old Power Station has been converted to a cozy pub serving hamburgers, and other pub fare. A sampling of six beer varieties, some produced at the brewery next door, is available. Beverages and food may also be ordered in the adjacent 125-seat movie theater for a “brew and view” experience.

In front on the main lodge, is a three acre Pinot Gris vineyard. These grapes as well as tons of other Northwestern grapes are crushed here annually to produce 18,000 cases of wine. The winery, located in the former infirmary, provides a cozy seating area for tasting wines amongst the fermenting tanks.

If that isn’t enough to do, there’s the distillery bar, beer garden, golf course, herb and vegetable gardens, massage studio, and gift shop. The overall atmosphere is very casual and guests are encouraged to wander and explore.
The property is ideally located at the mouth of the Columbia River Gorge with its spectacular vistas, waterfalls, and hiking trails. If a tax refund is on the way, there’s plenty of temptation in the antique shops, outlet mall, and galleries in nearby Troutdale.

Valentine's Day Winery Visits

Looking for something different to do on Valentine's Day? Several Oregon wineries are offering some imaginative substitutes for the typical chocolate and red wine tasting experience.

At Montinore Vineyards in Washington County you can try the dancing grape. Their Two to Tango event on  Sunday, Feb. 14 includes latin tango music and an instructor offering tango lessons on the hour from noon to four. If you have never visited Montinore, you really must. The winery is located off Highway 47 south of Forest Grove in Washington County. At the end of the oak-lined lane is a southern-style mansion where it would not be at all strange to see Miss Scarlet in her hoop skirt standing on the columned porch sipping a chilled glass of Riesling.

Built in 1905 by John Forbis, a former attorney for Anaconda Copper in Montana, the ranch was named Montinore, a contraction of Montana in Oregon. With over 585 acres producing 40,000 cases, Montinore is one of the largest Oregon wineries. Owner Rudy Marchesi combines traditional wine making with biodynamic vineyard management to produce highly regarded Pinot Noirs, Gewurtztraminer, Pinot Gris, Riesling and Muller Thurgau. The tasting room’s large picture windows offer an expansive view of the vineyards.

If dancing is not your thing, perhaps answering that burning question of "what wine to serve with a BLT sandwich" might be your Valentine choice. Chehalem wine tasting room in Newburg is having a We Love Bacon event pairing Pinot Gris, Chardonay and three different Pinot Noirs with bacon. The event takes place on Saturday and Sunday from 1-5 pm and includes live music beginning at 3 pm. Cost is $5.

Still undecided about the pig and wine? Continue on to Dundee to Sokol Blosser Winery where they are sponsoring a Pork and Pinot event pairing local pork mole sliders and a flight of Pinot Noir for $15.

Top that Napa!

View from Sokol Blosser