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Wolf Creek Inn

There is no sign claiming “George Washington slept here!” at the Wolf Creek Inn in Southern Oregon. Unfortunately our first president was born a bit too early for an overnight stay, but another president, Rutherford B. Hayes, did spend the night here as well as many other famous folks.

The Wolf Creek Inn, located about 20 miles north of Grants Pass near Exit 76 on Interstate 5, has been receiving guests longer than any other hotel in the Pacific Northwest. It was built in 1883 for local merchant Henry Smith, and, for its time, was exceptionally well-crafted and constructed. For many years, the inn and tavern served as a welcome rest stop for travelers on the long, arduous stagecoach trip from San Francisco to Portland. It earned a reputation for clean rooms and hearty meals.

During the early days of the movie industry, the inn served as a popular hangout for celebrities seeking a quiet retreat from Hollywood; and the likes of Mary Pickford, Orson Wells, Fredric March, and Carole Lombard have all signed the guest register. Clark Gable was a friend of the owner in the 1930s and often stayed at the inn while on fishing trips to the nearby Rogue River. Author Jack London wrote a short story and finished his novel, “Valley of the Moon” while a guest at the inn. It is rumored that he may still be residing here as his ghost has been spotted wandering around the second floor near his old room.  

In 1975, the property was acquired by the State of Oregon as part of its mission to “protect outstanding natural, scenic, cultural, historic and recreational sites for the enjoyment and education of present and future generations.” Historians from the state’s Historical Preservation office, carpenters, and local craftsmen spent four years completing major structural work and restoring the inn to its 1920s look and feel. Today, nine rooms offer guests an opportunity to enjoy a glimpse of the past with period furniture and décor. In keeping with the spirit of the times, there are no mini-bars, televisions or telephones in the room, but guests may spend the evening in the parlor reading books and playing checkers. However, as a concession to the 21^st century, free WiFi is available in the rooms for those who cannot be parted from their computers and iphones.

Prices are relatively reasonable from $85 for a single to $125 for the Clark Gable Suite which includes a hot breakfast. The on premise restaurant serves three meals daily featuring local ingredients and home-baked breads and desserts.  It is especially famous for its fried chicken and prime rib dinners. At Thanksgiving, the restaurant will be offering a full, holiday meal with all the trimmings.

Even if you are not an overnight guest, you are welcome to dine here or tour the inn. It is a part of the Oregon State Park system and is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Be sure to wander around the grounds as well to view the heritage roses and 125 year-old fruit trees.

Autumn vineyards, Umpqua Valley

While the summer months tempt visitors with a variety of nearby outdoor recreation options such as fishing, rafting or jet boating on the Rogue River, the autumn and winter months offer a selection of things to do as well. The inn serves as a good home base for day trips to many Southern Oregon attractions including the historic, gold rush town of Jacksonville, Oregon Caves National Monument, Oregon Vortex, Wildlife Safari, and the Applegate Trail Interpretive Center. Wine tasting, always a popular year-round activity, can be enjoyed at any number of wineries scattered through the Umpqua, Rogue, Applegate, or Illinois Valleys. And, in February, the season kicks-off at the Oregon Shakespeare Festival in Ashland.

Additionally, the inn has special events scheduled throughout the year including live music and winemaker dinners. Reservations are highly recommended.

Jacksonville: A Good and Bad Luck Town

Jacksonville Tavern

It must have been on a Friday the 13th when two prospectors discovered gold in Rich Gulch, Oregon Territory, in 1851. The mining camp of Jacksonville, which quickly grew to serve the needs of the gold miners flooding into the area, rapidly transformed to a booming community full of saloons, gambling halls, and shops. The future looked promising for this southern Oregon town, but bad luck cast a shadow over much of its history.

It wasn’t long before the easily accessed gold was gone, and the boom faded to bust. But Jacksonville continued to thrive as an agricultural center, seat of Jackson County, and, in the late 19th century, was southern Oregon’s largest town. In 1869, a smallpox epidemic struck. Later years brought ravaging fires that destroyed many residential and commercial buildings as well as the town’s newly constructed brick schoolhouse. The worst bad luck happened when the new north-south railroad, connecting California and Oregon, by-passed Jacksonville in favor of nearby Medford. At this point, many merchants and residents moved away; but, the final blow was in 1927 when the county seat transferred to Medford. The Great Depression hit hard and many residents turned to the town’s original source of wealth, gold, and began digging tunnels and shafts under city streets. In 1935, after particularly heavy rains, the tunnels’ supporting timbers gave way and parts of the town began collapsing. All this misfortune left Jacksonville a ghost of its former self, but never a ghost town.



The Presbyterian Church dates to 1881

 At last the town’s luck changed with an ironic twist. While other area communities continued growing and developing, Jacksonville, a little too off-the-beaten path, benefited from being ignored. It retained its old brick buildings, wooden houses, and 19th century appearance. In 1966, the entire town became a National Historic Landmark with over 100 buildings listed on the National Register of Historic Places.

Along with its lovely setting in the foothills of the Siskiyou Mountains, Jacksonville offers today’s visitors an authentic glimpse of an Old West town with a main street straight out of central casting. The brick buildings running along both sides of California Street now house an array of shops, restaurants, inns, and galleries. A self-guided, walking tour map from the tourist bureau directs visitors to 101 of the town’s historic sites and such architectural treasures as the Nunan House, McCully House, Presbyterian and Methodist churches. In summer months, living history tours at the Beekman House reflect the lifestyle of a well-to-do, 19th century family. The handsome Italianate county courthouse is now home to the Museum of Southern Oregon History and the jail serves as a Children’s Museum. Another must-see on the tour is the hilltop cemetery with pioneer tombstones dating back to the 1860s.



Beekman House

 Every summer for the past 49 years, Jacksonville has played host to what has become the Northwest’s premier, outdoor musical event, the Britt Festival. Set in a natural amphitheater on the former estate of pioneer photographer Peter Britt, the festival includes world-class performers of classical, jazz, pop, bluegrass, and country music. The 2011 schedule will be available April 6.

Cottage garden at McCully House Inn

Jacksonville, with its supply of excellent restaurants and charming bed and breakfasts in historic landmark buildings, is a great spot to headquarter while visiting Southern Oregon. Outdoor enthusiasts will find miles of hiking trails, white water rafting and fishing on the Rogue River, and, in season, skiing at nearby Mt. Ashland. It’s an easy commute from here to Ashland and the Oregon Shakespeare Festival.