Hot Lake Springs |
Of course, it had always
been a hot spot thanks to the 208-degree water that bubbles out of the ground
creating a steaming, sulfurous lake. Native tribes knew about the water’s
healing powers and considered the place holy ground. The first whites to enjoy
the lake were fur trappers returning from Fort Astoria in 1812; later on, it
was a welcome stopover for immigrants traveling the Oregon Trail.
In the 1860s, a number of
wooden structures were built around the lake and, in 1908, a three-story brick
hotel with hospital was added. The charismatic Dr. William Phy developed it
into a state-of-the-art medical facility with labs, operating rooms, teaching
hospital, and an innovative x-ray machine that seems more like a prop from a sci-fi
horror film. It was often referred to as the Mayo Clinic of the West and
attracted patients and spa seekers from all over the world.Bathhouse and lake |
In 1934, a fire destroyed
the large wooden structure. By then, Dr.
Phy had died from pneumonia, the railroad was rerouted, the new highway
bypassed the property, and the country had plunged into an economic depression.
During World War II, it served as a training facility for nurses and later as a
nursing home. Over time, the building fell into disrepair. Vandals had broken all but two of the 360
windows, and looted the fixtures and marble tiles. Holes in the roof allowed
water to damage floors and walls. Several attempts to save the structure failed
and the future seemed grim for this piece of Oregon history.
At the same time, David
Manuel was establishing a reputation as a renowned bronze sculptor and
transforming the little town of Joseph in nearby Wallowa County into a noted
art community. He and his wife, Lee,
frequently drove by the Hot Lake Hotel observing its sorry condition but also
envisioning the property’s potential as a major tourist destination. In 2003
they sold off their interests in Joseph and bought the place. While the old
hotel’s foundations were still sound, everything else was a mess and it would
be a daunting and expensive task to restore it. Eight years, a lot of hard
work, and over $12 million dollars later, Hot Lake Springs was back in business
with its grand re-opening in August, 2011.
One of the B & B rooms |
Twenty-two of the former
hotel rooms have been transformed into a bed and breakfast. Since the rooms
were decorated and furnished by local donors, no two are alike. There is a
charming breakfast nook and an Italian restaurant on the premise as well as a
theater, full service spa, indoor and outdoor soaking tubs. The Manuels also
moved their bronze foundry to the site and guests can take a tour and watch a
video describing the lost-wax casting process. Many of his pieces, mostly of wildlife
and Western themes, are displayed in an on-premise art gallery. Manuel has
maintained a long interest in Western art and history, especially Native
American history, and a small museum contains an outstanding display of
artifacts he has collected over the years.
Outside, there is an
antique vehicle display, honor garden, and life-size bronze statue of “The
Promised Land,” the same one that occupies Chapman Square in downtown Portland.
The Promised Land |
To see more photos and
artifacts from Hot Lake’s heyday, take a short drive south to the town of Union
with its wonderful county history museum.
The display of medical apparatus and equipment used at the hospital will
make you grateful to be living in the 21st century.
To make reservations or
view the various rooms online, visit their website at
www.hotlakesprings.com. It is not
necessary to be an overnight guest to enjoy the property and tour tickets are
available at $10 for adults. This includes the history museum, bronze foundry
(tours at 10:00 am and 2:00pm Monday through Saturday) and access to the
grounds and indoor facilities.