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Wolf Creek Inn

There is no sign claiming “George Washington slept here!” at the Wolf Creek Inn in Southern Oregon. Unfortunately our first president was born a bit too early for an overnight stay, but another president, Rutherford B. Hayes, did spend the night here as well as many other famous folks.

The Wolf Creek Inn, located about 20 miles north of Grants Pass near Exit 76 on Interstate 5, has been receiving guests longer than any other hotel in the Pacific Northwest. It was built in 1883 for local merchant Henry Smith, and, for its time, was exceptionally well-crafted and constructed. For many years, the inn and tavern served as a welcome rest stop for travelers on the long, arduous stagecoach trip from San Francisco to Portland. It earned a reputation for clean rooms and hearty meals.

During the early days of the movie industry, the inn served as a popular hangout for celebrities seeking a quiet retreat from Hollywood; and the likes of Mary Pickford, Orson Wells, Fredric March, and Carole Lombard have all signed the guest register. Clark Gable was a friend of the owner in the 1930s and often stayed at the inn while on fishing trips to the nearby Rogue River. Author Jack London wrote a short story and finished his novel, “Valley of the Moon” while a guest at the inn. It is rumored that he may still be residing here as his ghost has been spotted wandering around the second floor near his old room.  

In 1975, the property was acquired by the State of Oregon as part of its mission to “protect outstanding natural, scenic, cultural, historic and recreational sites for the enjoyment and education of present and future generations.” Historians from the state’s Historical Preservation office, carpenters, and local craftsmen spent four years completing major structural work and restoring the inn to its 1920s look and feel. Today, nine rooms offer guests an opportunity to enjoy a glimpse of the past with period furniture and décor. In keeping with the spirit of the times, there are no mini-bars, televisions or telephones in the room, but guests may spend the evening in the parlor reading books and playing checkers. However, as a concession to the 21^st century, free WiFi is available in the rooms for those who cannot be parted from their computers and iphones.

Prices are relatively reasonable from $85 for a single to $125 for the Clark Gable Suite which includes a hot breakfast. The on premise restaurant serves three meals daily featuring local ingredients and home-baked breads and desserts.  It is especially famous for its fried chicken and prime rib dinners. At Thanksgiving, the restaurant will be offering a full, holiday meal with all the trimmings.

Even if you are not an overnight guest, you are welcome to dine here or tour the inn. It is a part of the Oregon State Park system and is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Be sure to wander around the grounds as well to view the heritage roses and 125 year-old fruit trees.

Autumn vineyards, Umpqua Valley

While the summer months tempt visitors with a variety of nearby outdoor recreation options such as fishing, rafting or jet boating on the Rogue River, the autumn and winter months offer a selection of things to do as well. The inn serves as a good home base for day trips to many Southern Oregon attractions including the historic, gold rush town of Jacksonville, Oregon Caves National Monument, Oregon Vortex, Wildlife Safari, and the Applegate Trail Interpretive Center. Wine tasting, always a popular year-round activity, can be enjoyed at any number of wineries scattered through the Umpqua, Rogue, Applegate, or Illinois Valleys. And, in February, the season kicks-off at the Oregon Shakespeare Festival in Ashland.

Additionally, the inn has special events scheduled throughout the year including live music and winemaker dinners. Reservations are highly recommended.

Footloose in the Palouse

Palouse wheatfield from Steptoe Butte

“Oh beautiful for spacious skies, for amber waves of grain….”  While Katherine Bates penned those famous lines in Colorado, she could very well have been standing on the top of Steptoe Butte in southeastern Washington. As far as the eye can see, it’s a rolling landscape of undulating knolls covered with wheat, barley, and lentils. It looks unlike any farmland in this country, yet it is some of the most fertile land in the world.

How did it get this way?  During the Ice Age, colossal dust storms deposited layers of glacial silt in an area from present day Spokane to Walla Walla, along the Washington-Idaho border. The soil is called loess, from the German word for loose, and consists of microscopic, colloidal particles that are held together by tiny electrical charges. It is wonderfully fertile and has a unique ability to retain moisture. By holding the winter and spring water through the dry summer months, there is no need for irrigation and the region has never experienced a crop failure. The Palouse is the world leader in the production of soft, white winter wheat, and Whitman County has been the top wheat producing county in the U.S. since 1978.

To appreciate the beauty of this farm country, a visitor needs to find some elevation for a bird’s eye view. The highest point in the area is Steptoe Butte near Colfax where the road spirals around several times to reach the summit at 3,600-feet. From this vantage point, especially in the early morning and late afternoon when shadows are more pronounced, the unusual lumpiness of the landscape can be appreciated. Another good viewpoint is Kamiak Butte County Park near the town of Palouse. There’s an expansive panorama from the shady picnic area and an even better vista from the summit, reached by a forested hiking trail.

There are two “best” times to visit the Palouse area. One is in late May when the newly planted crops create a palate of vivid greens and bright yellows. By mid-August, the palate shifts to the soft, golden hues of maturing wheat.  This is harvest time and the hills are alive with gigantic combines and other farm equipment costing more than the average house. It’s fascinating to watch these behemoths climb up and around the hillsides without tipping over.  August is also the time of the National Lentil Festival in Pullman, Wash.

Pullman is the largest town in the area and home of Washington State University. The campus is worth visiting for its museums of anthropology and art, but more importantly, the WSU Creamery. Here, milk from local cows is transformed into scrumptious ice cream as well as Cougar Gold cheese, both available at Ferdinand’s Ice Cream Shoppe in the Food Quality Building.

Dahmen Barn, Uniontown

While the Palouse doesn’t have much to offer in terms of major tourist attractions, it is a wonderful place for driving around and enjoying rural, small town America. The Palouse Scenic Byway covers more than 200 miles through the rolling farmland and connects a series of prosperous, small farm communities. Uniontown, in the southern part of the tour, is home to the much-photographed Dahmen Barn. This rustic dairy barn has been converted to an art center and more than a dozen local artists maintain studios in what had been cow stalls and haylofts. There is a gallery and shop where locally-crafted pottery, paintings, jewelry, and fiber arts are available for sale. What makes the barn so popular with photographers is the surrounding fence comprised of 1000 wheels off everything imaginable from baby buggies to threshing machines.

The town is also home to St. Boniface Catholic Church, Washington’s oldest consecrated church. Built in 1904, the church features a striking interior with five altars and stained glass windows; its large size is impressive for a town of 350 people. Another over-sized structure worth checking out is the three-story, wooden J.C. Barron Flour Mill in the town of Oakesdale. It’s empty and looks rather forlorn now, standing as a relic of a thriving milling industry long since gone.

The town of Dayton sits on the southern edge of the Palouse and serves as the county seat for Columbia County. It includes a grand old courthouse, many historical homes, and the Dayton Depot, the oldest existing railroad depot in the state. Beautifully restored, it houses a museum of old railroad memorabilia.